When a New York Times restaurant reviewer visited Gennaro Esposito’s former restaurant in Hopewell, N.J., the writer found that looks can be deceiving.

The nondescript building housing the former “That’s Italian Trattoria” was seen as an ordinary eatery — until the food came out. The reviewer raved about Esposito’s native Italian dishes as standouts in any location.

Three years ago, Esposito moved his restaurant to North Charlotte Street in Pottstown. Again, the exterior of the nondescript building that formerly housed the Blossom restaurant and then a pizzeria at 1483 N. Charlotte St. can be deceiving. Inside, a cozy dinner spot awaits with food that is among the best to be found this side of Naples, Italy.

“I like good food, and I put my passion into what I do,” said Esposito, a native of Naples, who adopted his mother’s expertise in the kitchen.

The ingredients used at That’s Italian are fresh and high-quality; sauces are made on the premises from fresh vegetables (no paste or concentrate), and the trademark mouth-watering bread is baked fresh daily and served warm at your table with olive oil.

On a recent visit, the Muncher sampled Capriccioso panini, a sandwich on homemade Italian bread stuffed with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil and served with a side of greens ($8.25) The quality of ingredients and respectable portions in this mouth-watering sandwich was an example of just one of several paninis that emphasize flavor over tradition.

That’s Italian also features a complete selection of hot and cold subs, cheesesteaks. chicken steaks, and burgers on their sandwich menu, and all rise above the norm because of the quality of meats, cheeses, sauce and fresh-baked rolls or bread.

The Old World Margherita Pizza is a thin crust with plum tomato, fresh mozzarella, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil. Even the Muncher, who considers himself a margherita pizza connoisseur, was impressed!

Other speciality pizzas include a bruschetta loaded with diced tomatoes, red onions and basil (another Muncher favorite); the Godfather with pesto, three cheeses and prosciutto; Tomato Pie Brooklyn style; a pizza stuffed with Philly cheesesteak, and gourmet white with mozzarella, spinach and ricotta.

The spotless front of the restaurant opens in the back to a candlelit dining room, perfect for dinner or a party. The restaurant is BYOB. Esposito is reluctant to name a house specialty because he says their specialty is making the best Italian food they can, and everyone has a different favorite.

Muncher’s is Veal Francese, with a side of linguini and red sauce. “We make everything fresh here, so you can’t go wrong,” says Esposito. Indeed, the thin-sliced veal is fork-tender, coated in light egg batter, in a white wine lemon butter sauce with fresh pasta and the Muncher’s requested red sauce, light-bodied but flavorful.

The dish — with enough to take home for lunch the next day — comes with soup (made-fresh specialities such as cream of portobello or white bean and sausage) or salad and all the fresh bread you can eat for $18.95

Other popular entrees are chicken or veal marsala, parmigiana, piccata, or cacciatore. ($15.95, $17.95); or sorrento with eggplant, prosciutto and fontina cheese in a pink cream sauce ($19.95), as well as seafood entrees including mussels, clams, or tuna.

The Muncher has also tried the house lasagna (Mama Esposito’s recipe) and found it an amazing taste of Italy for just $9.95. Other Italian dishes include stuffed shells, baked tortellini and baked gnocchi.

Since moving his restaurant to Pottstown three years ago, Esposito says he has encountered many customers with different tastes but all with an admiration for quality food.

This is the place to find it. Not a fancy building, not high prices, just great food.

That’s Italian.